HOUSE HYDRANT INSTALLATION GUIDE
Table of Contents
- 1. Measure Hydrant Length
- 2. Prepare Tools & Materials
- 3. Shut Water Supply Off
- 4. Remove Existing Hose Bib
- 5. Drill Entry Hole
- 6. Tips for Various Siding Types
- 7. Weather Sealing
- 8. Test Fitment & Alignment
- 9. Attach Plumbing Adapter to Hydrant
- 10. Connect to Plumbing
- 11. Secure Hydrant to Wall
- 12. Test & Check for Leaks
- 13. Maintenance & Troubleshooting
Tips for Various Siding Types
For the best results, you’ll want to mount the House Hydrant against a smooth, flat surface. We recommend using a mounting block whenever possible.
Lap siding (fiber cement, vinyl, wood):
The House Hydrant needs to be mounted on a surface that’s exactly 90° in order to drain properly. The debris cover included with your House Hydrant Kit has a 5° wedge to keep the hydrant at a slight downward angle. With lap siding, it’s important to use a mounting block or standoff for a flat surface. Mounting blocks (also referred to as escutcheons) can be store-bought inexpensively or made on-site with a piece of wood. Manufactured mounting blocks are readily available at stores, and can be made from vinyl or fiber cement.
Here we’re retro-fitting a home that had the hose bib mounted right on the seam between planks of siding. Plumbing fixtures should always be mounted on a sturdy, level surface that allows for a good seal against the home’s siding. When upgrading this home to a House Hydrant, we added a simple wood mounting block. We used a carbide bit saw to cut out the correct-sized hole in the fiber cement siding, being careful not to cut through the weatherproof wrap under the siding.
Stucco, brick, brick-veneer:
A sturdy and level mounting surface is necessary for any type of plumbing fixture. We recommend using mounting blocks with stucco, brick, and brick-veneer homes.